I had originally created a set of Owl Placemats. However, they were a commissioned item for someone at Frank’s work. He took the placemats to work with him Tuesday without realizing I hadn’t taken the pictures yet. These were for a birthday gift for his boss, and the woman who was adding them with his other gifts was pestering him to bring the placemats to work, so thinking they were done and they were … he took them to work.. I looked everywhere on Wednesday for those placemats, realizing I should have left them in the sewing room as Frank wouldn’t have touched them if they’d been up here. So, I’ve spent the entire day doing something else, and I love the result, I think more than the Owl placemats… I wish I had a better picture of the end result, but I’ll do that later today and post it here when I have it
So along with my project, I’m going to share some tips on doing Free Standing Lace in your embroidery hoop, because yes, the fastest thing I could think of to finish was something in my hoop. There is simply no way I can cut fabric, piece it and finish it all in one day, I am just no longer that fast… I use to be, but no longer.
All the designs I am featuring in this post today are from
Embroidery by TM
Tereza Boháčová is one of the most talented FSL designers I’ve come across on the web. She has an amazing knack for creating designs that no one else is doing. I absolutely love love love her designs and best of all, she keeps her prices low which for me is a real bonus. I don’t buy many designs anymore, but FSL is one of my favorite types of stitch outs for machine embroidery as I love lace. If you visit her site you will see what I mean.. She has many wonderful and beautiful designs. Her design stitch out beautifully. They also don’t seem as stiff as some FSL you come across which I love. Not all lace imho has to be stiff. Tereza is also very active in helping people in her Facebook group, and she creates video tutorials for her designs so you can also see how to put some of them together.
So, yesterday I have stitched out some very fun ornaments that I hope you to will enjoy. I had spent a day or two a few weeks ago stitching out these same ornaments to send off to my sister, and she loved them.
Creating FSL Lace is actually quite easy to stitch out.
Most FSL is done in just one color sometimes two colors, but it is becoming more popular to use many colors. Most of my ornaments only used one or two colors, but the graves had quite a few colors.
When you are stitching FSL tho, one of the most important things you need to remember is to use the same color of thread in the bobbin that you’re using on the top. Most of the time I will just wind the same thread on my bobbin also. When I stitch out FSL designs I almost always use Rayon thread, but I have been known to use cotton thread and polyesters depending on the project. The thread type has a HUGE effect on how your FSL will turn out, so it’s important to know which thread type you want to use.
Pick your threads carefully, the coolest thing about FSl is that the design on the right side should look the same on the other side. If it doesn’t it’s because you didn’t use matching threads, or your bobbin may have messed up.
FSL also always needs a Water Soluble stabilizer, also known as WSS. The best and most popular brand is known as Vilene. It’s just absolutely fabulous and is exclusively used by myself. I do not use anything but Vilene when I stitch FSL. I will not scrimp in this area. Vilene is strong enough that you don’t need to use two layers like you do with many other brands of WSS, thus you save money because your only cutting one piece of stabilizer for your hoop.
Once you are done stitching out your designs, it’s time to take the stabilizer off. I gathered my supplies for the ornaments and went to work. Now, normally I would have just dipped these in a bath of very hot water and let them sit for about 15 minutes. I didn’t have that kind of time, because once you do that, you then have to let them air dry, by placing them on a board of styrofoam and pin them down so they stay flat… So I chose to do a little cheater method and this is what I’m going to show you today.
First, we cut around the design, I try to get close to the edge, but I’m usually about a 1/4-inch away from it, I don’t want to cut my design by mistake.
Place a towel over your ironing board, you want to do this because WSS is made up of glue, and as the water melts the glue from the WSS, it will absorb into your towel. You can wash the WSS out of the towel when you put the towel in the washer or let it soak in a sink first.
I fill a small plastic container with very hot water. The hotter the better, when it’s hot, the WSS melts right away, if it’s cold… you might as well put the design in a sink of water as it’s very slow to remove the WSS. Be prepared, if you have stitched a lot of designs, you will need to replace the water once it starts becoming cold, you’ll notice the difference.
Dip a cotton swab into the water,
and working at the edge of your design, lay the swap onto the WSS, it should melt away onto the towel.
Continue doing this all around the design. You can rub the cotton swab across it, but it’s better to just lay it in place and roll it across the stabilizer. You may find that your towel starts to get sticky, just move your towel and work in another area of the towel. Your hands will also get some glue on them, but it’s like dry Elmers glue, it will rub off, or wash off in the sink.
Now this method doesn’t remove all of the stabilizers, it was still in my design, but I do not mind this, these ornaments are not going to get washed in the washer and the WSS will give it a little bit of body. If you do decide to “sink” it in water, the biggest reason to let it soak is so you remove all of the glue, if the glue isn’t fully removed and you let it dry, your ornament will be very stiff from all the glue. When I do soak, I always also rinse it when I’m taking it out of the water I soak it in, thus I remove any remaining glue that might have stayed or soaked into the design.
When I do ornaments tho, I want there to be a certain amount of stiffness…
but not the amount that WSS leaves in if it’s soaked in water. I still want the ornament to have some body to it. I make my ornaments stiff again but only stiff enough to hold a standing position, they will still be pliable. Even tho I left the WSS in these ornaments, I still did this process. Many people might prefer starch for there stiffening, but I do not like starch as much
Lay your ornaments on a clean towel with the wrong side of the design on top.
and using either Best Press or Terial Magic, spray onto your design.
Lay your Non-Stick Pressing Sheet over the designs
I normally do this technique after soaking my ornaments, but I loved how these turned out and may just not soak all the WSS out of my ornaments in the future.
and this is how my ornaments looked…
However, Mozele Brown, last week posted a picture of her designs she’d stitched out
on a cool display tree, she got at Hobby Lobby. I couldn’t find that tree at Hobby Lobby or even in their online store, but I did find one like it at Target, so I picked that up and am going to show you the ornaments on that tree…
This is how my ornaments look on the tree…
I wish I had a better backdrop for you, but I really needed to get this post done, and perhaps later today I’ll find a better backdrop and will replace these pictures.
Slightly Better Backdrop
Either or, I hope you’ve enjoyed seeing my project today and don’t forget to get the last Free Monster pattern here.
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Friday, October 26, 2018
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