If you already know how to cut shapes, lay them out, you can skim over this page, it’s all pretty much routine if your already use to applique.
Cutting, Laying, Applique and Stitching Our Shapes
I have shown how I appliqued my entire wallhanging with the Clover Fabric Folding Pen Lesson, so part of this lesson will not show the actual making of the applique.
Cut out your shapes, one page at a time.
It will be easier to keep them separated by the page. I used some storage bags to put my shapes in.
I had 3 bags, one for each shape.
As I noted earlier, your going to have some shapes your going to have to put together.
Gather the shapes you need to put together.
Compare them on your tracing paper layout (front side)
Matching the two shapes up.
There are 3 ways to put freezer paper together.
The first is to glue it with something like Roxeanne’s Glue, or Glue Stick. Fold over one of the shapes, and dab the glue onto the sheet. Take note tho, once it’s been dry for awhile, it will eventually come lose and separate. It is better to use the other two methods. Are you curious why I showed you this? When I made my first wallhanging, I used glue stick on all the parts and had to redo all of them with the tape. :/ This is why I make the note about glue stick and Roxanne’s Glue.
The second is to use the Painters Tape (This was my favorite way to do it)
The last is also good and works better than the glues do and that’s to iron them.
As you can see, the wax melds into the paper just fine and it holds together well, but the tape is just better because the ironed piece can separate. The glue is the most likely to separate the pieces tho.
You can line up all your pieces together also.
Laying them in place helps you to also figure out if everything is going to go together nicely.
I ended up having a little burp where my finger is pointed..
It’s not hard to fix, take a scrap piece of freezer paper, and lay it under the part of the shape you need to add to, draw around it to fix the problem, tracing if you need to from the layout sheet also.
Tape it into place, notice the extra tape in the image..
Don’t worry about the extra piece hanging over, we’ll cut that in a few moments.
Turn it over and tape the backside. Any extra hangover can be cut now.
Layout the fabrics you chose to use for your land.
Keep in mind if your working with directions to think about your placement before you make final cuts.
We are now ready to start ironing our shapes to our fabrics.
This is a directional fabric, I had 4 of these total in my land fabrics and I’m very pleased with how it all worked out. When you use these directional prints, if your unsure of how it will layout, place the freezer paper shape on the top by using the painters tape and taping it down. Then lay it on your shape in the layout to see how it will look compared to how you have it on your shape. If the direction seems wrong, it will be wrong when you stitch it. This is the time you can fix that, versus cutting your shape first and then finding out it’s wrong.
Once your ready to cut.. believe it or not I actually used my rotary cutter to cut the shapes. When it comes to seam allowances… well.. if I need 1/4-inch or lower, I’ll cut the areas down later with scissors, but for the most part, my seam allowances here are a bit larger.
As you can see here. This first cut was the cut I’d be turning under the edges.
But when I know I’m not going to turn the edges and it’s going to overlap, I go a bit wider even, thus I know I get my overlaps taken care of .. I’m not concerned to much about the extra layers.
Once you have all your shapes cut out, keep this in mind for turning the edges under, turn under only the top parts of your applique. In some cases you might need to do another side, but you should not have to turn under the bottom edges of your shapes.
Start laying your shapes on to your white backing to get a good idea of where they go. Now, I didn’t draw on my backing, but I did take and use some washaway stabilizer and traced parts of my tracing paper layout (front side) on to the stabilizer. You could also use a iron on fusible to do this to, iron the iron on side to your backing and wala, you have an instant layout to place your shapes on. I didn’t trace the entire hanging, just enough really to get me started across the top section to middle section and then I just placed the shapes into place. As you can also see, I added a little lake/river portion on the bottom of my wallhanging. I just wanted to give a little water effect.
Almost finished putting my shapes into place on the backing.
As you can see, I pinned them in place, but if you want to remove your freezer paper shape, you could use a bit of glue stick to lay them in place also, you just need to add enough that it won’t be moving around when your stitching your shapes into place.
Woohoo, I’m ready to sew!!
You will want to use an open toe foot for your machine, set your machine to a blind stitch, if you choose to use a thread other than invisible thread, try to pick a complementary color that you won’t have to change often. I use invisible thread almost 99% of the time as I just prefer that. I set my machine to a blind stitch, trying to setup a very small zigzag, and a small length between the zigzags, 2 to 3 stitches, I like my stitches close together rather than far apart because I do use a very tiny zigzag.
In the above image I always make a little test to be sure everything is set the way I like it. I recommend everyone do this.
I start at an edge area, pulling the pins out as I come to them. I do not stitch over pins ever. Go slow, their is no need to rush and by going slowly you can control your project more. Try to keep it as flat as possible while your stitching.
Stitch by working in small areas at a time. Their is no need to try and do the whole width in one stitching.
While I’m stitching the other part of my project is rolled up.
I know this doesn’t look great, but please keep in mind, I had not ironed anything yet, it’s just come out of the sewing machine. This was when I realized I didn’t have enough land.. I needed that extra three inches.
So I added to my wallhanging at the bottom. The land part only is ironed out, as you can see, it’s much flatter and lays much nicer.
I will remove the freezer paper now from the shapes by turning to the back side and opening the backing with scissors,
and then pulling out the paper.
On this project I will also cut out as much of the backing as possible. Kona is a fairly heavy cotton, so the more I can lower that weight off the better it will be once I’m ready to quilt this project. Their will be alot of applique in this project, so it’s only going to get heavier, I feel better knowing that Kona is not in the way.
It doesn’t need to look pretty, no one is going to see it once it’s quilted.
The above has been to show you how to create your own, but if you want to take and just use the premade shapes I’ve made in these templates, they will be part of this lesson for as long as this site exists.
Templates for 2 halves to be stitched together.
Click the image to download:
The full landscape (no middle seam):
I hope you will try this technique, let me know what you think, comment below, I love reading the comments.
Enjoy Week 2 of Oh Holy Night