First and foremost, I only know this information from my own experiences with cutting fabric, creating svg files, and learning the various softwares. Their may be far better or more informative info out there that I haven’t found or tried.
In theory, all svg’s should be made the same, but unfortunately, they are not. Make The Cut (here in known as MTC) which is a software that I really like, does not play well with it’s svgs when opened in Silhouette Studio. Any svg made in MTC needs to be resized once it’s opened in Silhouette Studio. Silhouette of America has chosen not to fix this error and it’s definitely in the Silhouette software that this problem exists.
When you open a svg created in MTC in other softwares such as Sure Cuts Alot (here in known as SCAL), the svg opens to the correct size. If you resave that svg in SCAL, it will open to the correct size in Silhouette Studio.
Using Silhouette Studio 2 9 to Create Cutting Files pt 1
Using Silhouette Studio 2 9 to Create Cutting Files pt 2
The same lesson is below in image form to help guide you step by step.
Supplies you will need: A pdf pattern with quilt template shapes InkscapeSilhouette Studio Designer Edition 2.9 (this is the only pay software you need) Silhouette Cutting Machine I think it goes without saying that this is a Silhouette tutorial, geared towards using a Silhouette Cutting machine such as the Cameo. I’m only guessing that this would work with all models, but I only own a Cameo, so I don’t know for sure that this lesson works for all Silhouette cutters.
You should download and install both Inkscape and Silhouette Studio Designer Editions.
Know which folder your pdf file is in, then open Inkscape.
As the image notes above, Inkscape opens each time with a pretty small window, even tinier than I’ve shown here, you need to always resize it to open at your preferred size. It doesn’t save the size either from each opening. I do not know if their is any setting in preferences that fixes this issue.
I resize from the bottom corner, but you can resize from any corner. Just drag your mouse until it’s the size you want to work with.
Once you are finished resizing, Go to File, Click on Import
Choose your pdf file
A window will appear in which you will need to choose which page of the pdf file you wish to open first.
It doesn’t matter if the pdf file is 2 pages of 20 pages, you are just working with the pages that contain your shapes. If only 3 of the pages are template shapes, then your going to only need to know which page those template shapes are on. You can click thru the pdf file till you find them and work each page separately.
You will be making a svg file for each pdf page.
In this sample image, I chose to work page 2 of the 3 pdf pages.
Click ok, and your shapes will appear on the Inkscape window.
It will open the file already selected.
We’re only going to be in Inkscape (why do I keep wanting to type Netscape :)) for a few moments, even tho I’ve taken plenty of images, each page shouldn’t take you more than just a few minutes to do.
We want to move the selected area into the paper area on your work table. By clicking on a line of the shape, drag it into the worktable.
Once it’s in position
Right click and Choose Ungroup on the menu.
You want to see the dashed lines around each shape, if they aren’t their, try it again.
Click outside of the area, then choose a shape and click on one of the “key” letters and numbers
Once it’s highlighted,
press the delete key on your keyboard.
We are going to delete each one of these in each shape. So go ahead and do that.
When you come to shapes that won’t be cut with fabric, such as the J1 and G1 in this image above. (In this pattern, the eyes are meant to be embroidered, even tho I still give the applique shape pattern for them).
Click and drag the shapes.
Once they are hilighted, press the delete key on your keyboard.
If your going to applique them, then do not delete them, you’ll need them to cut your shapes.
Go to File | Save As
By default, Inkscape will save as a .svg file, name your file and click Save.
Do your other pdf pages in this same manner. Once all your svg files are made from the other pdf pages, Open Silhouette Studio Designer Edition.
No matter what your cut type your creating is, your svg files will remain the same.
With quilting, there are three types of files you can or will be making.
Freezer Paper Cuts
I’m going to show you all three on this page and they are also featured also in the video.
Unless other wise stated, the same process is done for each type of cut until you need to create the placements for your cuts.
Marking Cuts are not actual cuts, but instead you use a pen or marking pencil to mark instead of a knife blade.
Click the open icon.
Use the Files of Type svg line to have svg files show up.
It is possible you may first need to use the “Look In” at top of window to browse to your folder you just saved those svg files in.
Another tip, if you have the file open in explorer
You can drag it to the window. That’s where the SVG Viewer I mentioned in Today’s Cutting Techniques comes in handy. You could also just paste the path from explorer into your open window like below:
Once you click ok, it will open to the folder you want, and you can choose the svg file that way to.
Hilight the svg file you wish to open, and click ok.
Once you do that, your svg file will appear in the work window in a second tab which it will name to the same as your svg file. (look to bottom left of image to see the tab)
The Untitled.studio file will also remain in place. You can close it, but you may need it, I just always keep mine open.
Right click and choose Release Compound Path on the menu.
Right click again and choose Ungroup on the menu.
You may need to “Ungroup” twice. I’ve never had the boxes around show up the first time around, I’ve always had to ungroup twice. When the boxes around the shapes show up then you know you can move to the next step. (and I do realize they are hard to see, but their is no way to have them show up better)
Click outside of the selected area until nothing is selected.
Now click on any shape, it should select that shape by itself.
To select several shapes at the same time, click anywhere, then drag over the shapes trying not to cover fully the shapes you don’t want.
Hilight the two bows and two ribbons on the right side of the window.
The reason we do this is because we are going to move these shapes to that untitled.studio file I mentioned earlier. Remember, we are currently creating a Fabric cut, so we have to think in these terms. We won’t have enough room on the mat once we add the seam allowance for all the shapes, so we need to move some shapes in order to fit them.
After you hilight the files and they are selected, right click and choose “Cut” on the menu. You could choose copy, but, you will just have to come back to that tab to delete them. Cut will do the same thing as copy, but will also delete the files on the current tab.
Click on the Untitled.studio file. If you closed this, just go to the first icon under the word File in the top right corner and click. (It will say “New Drawing” when you hover over it)
Once on your on the new tab, right click and choose Paste or Paste In Front.
The difference with these two lines is that if you had other files on this mat that your pasting to fit into place, you would want to use the Paste In Front, so you could easily move them after pasting. If you just use paste, it’s a bit harder to move them.
Once you choose which paste feature you want to use, the selection will appear on your worktable. If your shapes weren’t on the mat prior to pasting, they will paste in the same spot as they were on the other worktable.
You will then want to move the shapes around, we need to make enough room to add that seam allowance to each of the shapes, so allow at least 2 of the small squares between each of your shapes in other words, a 1/2-inch at the least.
Do the other tab as well if you’d like.
Click on the Offset icon.
Offset is how we are going to add seam allowances in Silhouette 2.9+
Press “Ctrl and the A” keys on your keyboard (Mac Users, we are selecting all shapes).
Click the Offset button
Before you click apply, you’ll want to set your seam allowance which should be 0.250 in the Offset Distance window. If it is currently any other number, change it to 0.250.
Do not click apply yet.
I prefer to “corner” my points and turns, but have a look at each one to see which you would prefer. You will notice a difference on the shapes as you decide which one your going to use.
Once you decide that you can click Apply.
Next, we need to separate the shapes,
Because the fabric is going to cut the outer edge, we need to move the inside shape out of the way. Click the inner shape with your mouse.
When it’s selected, drag it out of the way out into the non-mat area (greyed background area in image, it doesn’t matter which side you move it to)
Move the rest of the shapes into the same grayed background area.
Once you have them all in place, select all of them by dragging over the shapes.
Right click and choose cut
Click on the “New Drawing” icon.
A new work table will appear.
Paste or Paste in Front.
The shapes should show up in that same spot of the grayed area.
Move them onto the mat. You can move these quite close together, as these shapes will become your Freezer Paper Cuts.
Move all the shapes into place on the mat.
At this point, we should save our files so that at the very least, we can tell them apart.
This is currently your freezer paper cut
Go go File, Save As, or
click on the disk icon if it’s already been saved as a file to save your files. Do this with each of the tabs.
With the untitled.studio file it will come up as that name, you can then rename it to what you prefer.
My naming algorithm is named by the pattern I am doing and type of cut. Sometimes I’ll add the pdf page number also.
As an example:
In the image above you can see that I’ve labeled this as
LT05 = Little Treasures May pattern
p2-1 = pdf page 2 part 1
but most important to me is knowing what type of cut it is:
FP = Freezer Paper Cut
when it’s a fabric cut, I name it with FC
if it’s a Marking Cut, I use MC
and I usually make a Layers cut as well (same as marking type of cuts, but the Layer I’m talking about is to create the placement for the layout on your background block) but named with LC in the filenames.
Bring your other original sized pieces over to your Freezer Paper window to try and fit them on the mat. Know that it’s not uncommon that you may need 2 or 3 files of Freezer Paper .studio files to fit all your shapes depending on how many shapes need cutting.
With Freezer Paper Cut files, you can have as many shapes on your worktable mat as you can fit. As close together as you need, although I’m not fond of butting them right up next to each other, I do my best to get them as close as possible.
If your going to cut your freezer paper on the 12×12 mat, there are two things to be aware of.
The first is that if you are using Reynolds Freezer paper or paper that is wide like Reynolds is, you will cut a 12×12 piece of freezer paper to place on your mat.
If you are using C.Jenkins freezer paper, those sheets are 8×11, so you will need to go to your Page Tools.
and change the size of the area on the mat that will fit into
an 8×11 paper size
Once you click on the 8×11 paper size, you will then see that you will need to move some shapes to another tab so that your other shapes will cut. If you were to leave it like this, the cut would cut out like it’s a 12×12 mat but your outer shapes would be cut off because of the difference in the paper size to the mat.
Tips On Freezer Paper Cuts
Your freezer paper will need to have the wax to the mat side and your paper to the top. If you reverse this and place the wax on the top, you will need to “flip” or reverse your shapes as well so that they will iron on the fabric properly.
Don’t worry I haven’t forgotten that we moved from fabric cuts right into freezer paper cuts 🙂
Because a Marking Cut is different from these two cuts, I will do that via a lesson below after we go thru creating Cut lines (yep, we still haven’t done that yet) 🙂 for your freezer paper and your fabric.
The following is for fabric and freezer paper cuts until we get to the Silhouette Cut Settings portion of the lesson. They will have separate images explaining based on the media/medium.
Let’s Get It Cut
Click on the Scissors icon in your software.
It will open the Cut Style window
Select all your shapes.
Click on the Cut Edge line on the menu.
Once you do this, your shapes will turn red.
Like you see here in this image above.
I seem to have cut part of the image off above, but we want to now go to the Silhouette Cut Settings icon (looks like a angled pencil/pen/knife)
When you change to this window, you need to know which file you are working on, whether it’s a fabric or a freezer paper cut.
In this case, it’s a fabric cut in the image above.
For the media, we want to choose Fabric (Thin fabric like cotton prints)
Your going to use the Knife Blade
Leave the other settings alone.
However and even tho I’ll discuss this again later on the cutting pages, you will change your knife setting to 3, 4 or 5. Do not go above 5, if you have to go above 5 for this, your fabric is not prepared well enough, or your fabric and backing are not stable enough on the mat. If you make the choice to go above 5, their is the strong possibility of cutting your mat and getting bad cuts on the fabric.
If you are doing the freezer paper cut, your going to choose “Print Paper” as the medium.
Their is no video for this part of the lesson. The process is the same whether you use version 2.9 or 3.0.
This is not something you are likely to do, the only reason I give it is so that if you wish to try it, you can. I’m going to show a very minimal version of the how to on this
The reason this is hard to implement, is because when your pasting the shapes to a new tab, you can’t move them afterwards, you can’t even more the original files, because if you do, the marking will not be right on the cuts.
Marking Cuts involve the original size and the fabric cut.
It is by far easier to just eyeball the 1/4-inch seam allowance or use a ruler on your fabric to line things up when you iron your freezer paper shapes onto the fabric cut shapes.
This method is for the Silhouette cutting machines only. It is done very different and much easier on the Scan and Cut machines. With the Scan and cut machine, you can scan in your shapes, mark the shapes and cut all in one pass without ever having to worry about a little move of the shape onto the worktable.
For me personally, I just eyeball it when I apply the freezer paper to the fabric. It’s just faster.
However, if you want to give it a look or try it out, here’s the low down on how to do it.
Move your shapes around as if your going to add a seam allowance.
Open your Freezer Paper File
Save it immediately as a fabric Cut filename
Click on your Offset icon.
Select your shapes and Click your offset line.
Check to be sure your 0.250 is set on the Offset Distance line and you are sure about the Corner or Round, then click Apply.
Once the offset is applied, we then need to group the shapes.
Select one shape at a time
Right click and choose Group on the menu.
By grouping it will allow us to move the shapes later into place without having to be sure we have both shapes moving at the same time.
Once we move them and get them the way we plan to cut, you won’t be able to move them again, so it’s important to group until we need to separate them again.
Continue grouping one shape at a time, if you need room to group the larger shapes, you can safely move the shapes you’ve groups already.
Once you are done grouping the shapes all together, move them into position for cutting your fabric. Once you decide on this choice, you won’t be able to move them, so please get them as close as you feel comfortable with. I haven’t gone as close as I normally would in the image above, but the image is only suppose to show you that it is in position to cut.
Click the New Drawing icon.
Select a shape.
Right click and click on Ungroup.
It may be a little hard to see in this image, but we now want to select an inside shape not the outside. Right click and choose Cut.
Go to the next tab you just opened.
Right click and choose Paste or Paste In Front.
The shape will appear in the exact same spot it was in on the other tab.
(I am aware this isn’t the same shape selected in the image above this one, but I had my images out of order and captured the wrong one when I was creating this part of the lesson).
When you go back to the fabric tab, you will see the shape is missing as it should be.
Continue to move the inside shapes on your fabric cut window one by one to the new window and save it as a Marking Cut filename.
Once you are finished you will be ready to cut.
The order of cutting is important here
When you get to the Cut Settings Window, you need to be using your marking cut file first, cut the outside edge line,
and for the “knife” choose the Sketch Pen.
Lay your mat into the cutting tray with your fabric on top, place a sketch pen preferably a washable pen or a white chalk like pencil, something that will glide easily over the fabric. Your pen/pencil choices here are important choices, if you choose something that’s washable, be sure it won’t become permanent when you iron it, since you iron first and then wash later.
Once it’s finished, without removing the mat from the cutting area of the machine, then set the fabric cut in place, and set it to knife. Replace the pencil/pen with your knife set already to the knife cut # you need for the cotton fabric.
Then cut the fabric.
Once finished, you can remove the fabric from the mat and iron your freezer paper shapes onto the fabric.
When I tested this, I used Chalk pencils with no problem.
I offer these lessons to be helpful, although I don’t know everything their is to know about this process, these are processes I have followed and that have worked for me. As I stated previously, what I know about these processes I have learned from others on the web willing to share their experiences. Granted, I have formed my own how to process and I have extensively tested the process in both my Silhouette and my Brother Scan and Cut machines.
If this were a machine embroidery design, you’d do a test stitch out first, it’s the same for any type of cutting, do a test cut first.
In a world that’s ever-changing, even in the craft industry, things change quickly. I can remember when the Rotary Cutter first produced by Olfa in 1979 changed the way I was going to sew forever. I absolutely love my rotary cutter. I first learned about rotary cutters in 1987 when I started working at a fabric shop in Salt Lake City, Utah. I can’t even tell you how it changed my world. Back then, I wasn’t into quilting yet, that would come in 1988. For me, I used my rotary cutter for cutting out clothing. I bought some weights, the giant mat, and I was off to the races on how quickly I could put out new clothing. It was totally amazing. I still own that same rotary cutter today. When we moved to Cumberland, Maryland in late 1987, I took my first quilting class thinking I could make some friends. Imagine their surprise when I cut out my quilt with that same rotary cutter and that teacher was still teaching how to use templates. Strip piecing to my knowledge was non-existent as a technique then. Can you imagine??
So, last year, when I got back into quilting, I discovered the wonderful world of the new cutters. I was really taken aback tho by the pricing of them. They are not inexpensive, and you really do need to do your research with them. I took the time to do my research and I knew right off the bat I didn’t want a machine that I would still have to use templates or dies for. That just doesn’t make sense to me to have to buy templates when I can rotary cut whatever I need. So buying what is known as dies to me is just not going to happen, while I know many of you own those types of machines, for me, it’s just not the direction I personally wanted to go.
Finally, in September 2013, I purchased the Silhouette Cameo from Amazon. Suffice it to say, cutting fabric on today’s cutters is still a foreign kind of thing. It’s not easy, and there is a learning curve to it. I really made a huge effort to learn my Cameo, but I just had no luck trying to cut fabric with it. So I set it aside for a bit and kept looking for ways to cut with it. Please don’t get me wrong, it was possible to cut fabric with the Cameo, but not the way I want to cut it. I will rarely use Heat n Bond to do applique, it’s just not going to happen in my mind. I do not like the stiffness that comes with Heat n Bond, and I am not partial to zigzag applique as well and while some people add zigzag to it, others do not. — as of June 22, 2018, this hasn’t changed, but as time has gone by I have used fusibles more than I did 4 years ago when I first wrote this post.
This page was updated June 22, 2018, mainly to cover some of the changes in cutting techniques today. Changes made start with red text in the sentence.
In January 2014, I purchased the Brother Scan N Cut, and from the day I got it, I have cut the fabric the way I wanted easily. Hallelujah, I was totally rejoicing.
In 2016, I purchased a KNK Force machine and I love this machine. The greatest thing about this machine is the 15-inch wide field, and the wireless capability to send stuff straight to the machine from my pc. Both MTC and SCAL work well with this machine also.
I guess I am slow, I’ve been working on writing this lesson for months, just trying to take in everything I’ve learned about cutters and how they work since that time even from when I bought the Cameo.
First, I’m not going to kid you, it is by far faster, easier, and less expensive to cut your fabric with your rotary cutter if you are cutting out strips and template type shapes.
If you do applique, the process time is probably about the same. These lessons I’m going to show you will show you not only how to get your block to the software, but also to the cutter, how to cut out freezer paper, how to mark your quilt blocks, and how to prepare and cut your fabrics for your blocks. It will be spread out over several pages. This is not a one-page lesson because there is so much to learn about this great new technique.
First, I want to thank all of the people who have spent time creating pages and videos to show us the Cameo, the Brother SNC, Make the Cut software, Brother Canvas and Silhouette Design Studio. Without you, I could not write my own version of the techniques and show people how I now create my cuts for my applique blocks. A special thank you to Kari of the Bernina Designer Plus v7 Yahoo Group who gave us some tips on cutting fabric with the Cameo. I finally got what I wanted (almost and I am happy) out of my Cameo.
As of 2018, I no longer use my Cameo machine, in fact, it sits on a shelf just collecting dust. I will note, I loved using the Cricut mats with my Cameo and I promoted it in many of the posts on this blog, however, after realizing that the Cricut mats threw off my calibration and how difficult it is to re-calibrate the Cameo machine I no longer use the machine. I did get it re-calibrated and down the road, I may choose to sell it or use it, but I would go back to using the Cameo mats if I did so. It’s not worth it to ruin your machine by using the mats that are not meant to be used in the first place on any of your machines.
First, this page is mainly about supplies, software’s, and cutters, the actual lessons will be done on their own pages.
I’m going to first talk about software. There is software on the market for helping you get your pattern ready for the machine. I’ve mentioned several already, however, I’m going to list a few others as well
Inkscape – open source – Will open and create files for cutting software
Craft Artist 2 – 39.99 – Will open and create files for cutting software
Brother Canvas – Free – Will convert .svg to .fcm via your browser (As of 2018, Brother has introduced installable software for your desktop/laptop that you can log into and work on your stuff without having to upload them to Brother Canvas). This is still free.
Embrilliance – 149.95 – For machine embroiderers only. This wonderful software will take your digitized design and convert to not only silhouette studio files but your SNC files. It will even create a .svg for those of you needing other formats. Easily. Cost is high because it’s also a design editor. You need the Essentials part of the program to do this), but for those of you with the SNC, you don’t have to use Brother’s website to get your fcm file. As of 2017, Brother has decided to keep the .fcm format proprietary to there own software, fcm files may no longer work in Embrilliance and I’m fairly sure actually that they don’t. This update only occurs if you keep your SNC updated with the firmware updates, if you don’t bother to do the updates, it is possible that the fcm files will work on your SNC. Just keep in mind tho if your trying to keep the fcm working (because it currently does for you) your missing out on new features added to the machine by not doing your firmware upgrades I use Canvas to create my FCM files so it doesn’t bother me that Embrilliance and other softwares don’t allow the FCM file to work any longer.
Sure Cuts Alot – 59.95 (standard version) Depending on if you buy the Pro version or the standard version. Current newest version 4 (I didn’t buy the pro version) allows you the ability to convert .svg to .fcm and this makes this software the cheapest software you can install on your pc to create your .fcm files. Brother canvas is still free. Even if you’re a machine embroiderer, this makes this a less costly option to Embrillance, and you can add the tiny allowance to your shapes that Embrillance automatically does for you manually. My only gripe with SCAL is no way to choose which page you want to open your .pdf at. SCAL did add the ability to choose pages for your pdf, you no longer have to extract or separate the pages first) As of 2017, Brother has decided to keep the .fcm format proprietary to there own software, fcm files may no longer work in SCAL, although I am unsure of this because I’ve always made my fcm files in Canvas. This update only occurs if you keep your SNC updated with the firmware updates, if you don’t bother to do the updates, it is possible that the fcm files will work on your SNC. Just keep in mind tho if your trying to keep the fcm working (because it currently does for you) your missing out on new features added to the machine by not doing your firmware upgrades I use Canvas to create my FCM files so it doesn’t bother me that Embrilliance and other softwares don’t allow the FCM file to work any longer.
PDF Writing Software – Free – CutePDF and/or PDF Fill, this is fairly optional, but you may need the ability to print to pdf from one of your software’s that doesn’t print to pdf.
Each of these software’s work in their own way. Whether you’re a quilter or crafter, they will work in one way or another for you to help you create your cutting files.
The only software in that list that I don’t own is Sure Cuts A Lot, and while I did try it out, I prefer to use Make The Cut, I just found it easier to use. However, each of the above versions has trial versions that you can try to see which is easiest for you. Brother Canvas is not software you can install on your pc however, you need to create an account and use your browser to convert .svg files to .fcm to be used in your SNC. You could also scan them or use via formats such as .jpg, but it’s much easier for me to use Brother Canvas because you can setup your SVG as well to cut how it should once you get to the cutter. (As of 2018, Brother Canvas is now installable software for your pc). (I did eventually purchase SCAL, I just still prefer MTC over SCAL)
With both Brother Canvas and Silhouette, they are designed to go with the cutter of the respective brand, and they are not designed to write files in any other formats. It’s not possible in the current version of Silhouette even to export to .svg which imho is a huge mistake for Silhouette to take away from their customers. At some point, Silhouette came out with a Business version of the software that allows you to export SVG.
I would encourage any Silhouette customer to upgrade their free version to the Designer Studio version tho. I won’t be showing you anything that I’m aware of that can be done in the free version, so if you don’t own the upgrade to the Designer Studio, you will need either Make The Cut or Sure Cuts A Lot in order to create your files if you plan to export to .svg.
If you are not into paper crafts, I also would not encourage you to purchase the Silhouette subscription service. While it may seem like a great deal, it is not easy to take the artwork you purchase and create patterns for your block with it and they are not designed for you to do so either. They also do not allow commercial use of the designs on the subscription service although many of the artists can be found selling SVGs on their own websites for commercial use.
These lessons will only focus on the Silhouette Cameo and the Brother Scan N Cut, they are the machines I own and so I will be showing how to cut with them. However, the one common denominator I have found with all of this is that preparation of your files and your fabrics is pretty much the same no matter which brand of machine you use.
These lessons focus on preparation and cutting fabric based on the use of Freezer Paper, Starch and Fabric Stiffeners. No Heat n Bond was used at all in the preparation of these lessons.
Supplies You Will Need:
Reynolds Freezer Paper or C. Jenkins 8×11 Freezer Paper or C. Jenkins 15×12 Freezer Paper / Note: Do not use C&T’s version of Freezer Paper. The reason for this is because that freezer paper has a strong adherence to the mat and when you’re removing it from the cutter, the freezer paper seems to adhere itself more to the mat and does not come off without scraping it off. In other words, you’ve just wasted very expensive freezer paper because you had to scrape it off your mat versus lifting it off.
Best Press – Consider buying this by the gallon, you will go thru a lot of it. Other starches which are cheaper will work, but you will use far more of them, and you risk getting flakes all over your fabric.
Terial Magic – Slightly more expensive than Best Press, but, does the job in 1 application, takes less time to do, no cleaning of iron is needed as often, and uses far less of the product.
4-Inch or 6-Inch Brayer – A must have tool. This is used to flatten and smooth our whatever medium you are laying on the mat. Many machines already come with “scraping” tools for the same purpose, but the Brayer really makes a huge difference in getting a nicely laid out fabric or freezer paper.
Painters Tape – This is an optional product used to help when your medium is slightly hanging over the edge of the sticky part of your mat.
As of 2018, I no longer use Terial magic for cutting fabric, nor do I starch my fabric prior to cutting it. I use the Freezer Paper technique exclusively for cutting fabric. I love love love this technique and it gives a perfect cut every time.
While these tools are geared towards the machines they go with, most tools can be used for different machines. You can use those that come with your machine or purchase other types to find what is best for you.
Where mats and blades are concerned, shop around, while I usually find the best prices on Amazon, I have found good prices on eBay and other shops as well. Walmart also carries the Silhouette mats. I am not sure about Brother at Walmart.
You will need the High Tack Support Sheet for your Brother Mat as well. — Updated May 2017, you don’t have to use the support sheets, just add some Zig glue to your mats and keep them clean. As of May 2018, I still do not use the support sheets, what a waste of money these are.
If you plan to scan with your Brother SNC, take the plunge and buy the scanning mat. The reason being is that while you can use the normal mats in the scanner if you get any cut lines or markings on them, the scanner will pick them up. The scanner on the SNC is very sensitive and even the tiniest of cutting scraps will be picked up in the scan. As of June 2018, no need to buy the scanning mat, you can place your fabric on the normal mat you’d use, scan, and then move your shapes on the screen into the areas where you’ve placed your fabrics.
With the Brother machine, you can not use the Silhouette or any other brand of mats in the machine. However, with the Silhouette, you can use other brands of mats in the Cameo, so let’s say you find the Cricut mat on sale for better than the Silhouette, you can use those mats in your Silhouette, although, wait until your warranty is up before you change your brand of the mat. It’s my understanding that the various companies will void your warranty if you’re not using their products to cut or print with. — Added May 2017 Using other mats on your cameo can create calibration problems, and it is very difficult to re-calibrate the machine. Please stay with the silhouette mat instead of any other mat brands especially Cricuts mat.
Both brands have different blades. With Brother to cut fabric and freezer paper you only need the Standard Blade. I do not know in regards to stencil template plastic which you would need since I don’t use the plastic to mark my quilting patterns with. I only use my Brother for fabric cutting, so, I don’t feel the need to purchase a second blade holder and keep it for paper only.
With Silhouette, however, they have a standard blade and a fabric blade. Both blades are the same blade, they are just packaged differently so you know which blade is which.
Pen Holders – I’m not impressed with the marking ability of the Brother Scan N Cut, this is the one area of the machine that I don’t really think they thought out too much in terms of what people will want to use. The one thing that the SNC offers over the Silhouette machine is that they have the blue washable and the purple pens. However, you can use these pens in your silhouette cutter as well so it’s not necessary for that respect for Silhouette to make these pens. If you plan to mark fabric or freezer paper and you’ve purchased the cameo, purchase the additional pen holder.
Note: As of late 2015, Brother came out with a pen holder for the SNC that allows your own pens. This is a huge bonus to your SNC and one I intend to try out. There are some videos on youtube to see how this pen holder works, it is my understanding it won’t take the large sharpie pens, or fat Crayola pens, but will take the smaller ones.
Pens: With the Silhouette and it’s pen holder, you can literally fit most pens and markers into the holder. Not all, but most and the thin ones like Jellyrolls can be made to fit in them.
While I do own Silhouette’s Sketch Pens, it’s not necessary to use these. They also bleed.
You’ll need a Spatula. Both machines come with this as part of their supplies when you purchase the extended packs. For some things, you may even need what I call the pick because it reminds me of that pick the dentist puts in your mouth to scrape your teeth with.. ewwww… You could probably find these cheaper even at a medical supply.
You will need a scraper as well. Some people use old credit cards, I’ve seen one video where a lady used a wind scraper (used for removing the ice off your window shield on your car during the winter months) and various other tools. My favorite has become the Spatula that came with my Brother SNC, but I also ordered the Cricut Scraper and Spatula. The spatula makes it very easy to lift your fabric or freezer paper off sticker mats or fabric or paper that has adhered quite strongly to your mat. You want to use these as they will prevent ripping or fraying on the paper or fabric.
The Brayer is one of the best tools you can own for adhering your fabric or paper to the mat. It runs over the medium and gives a smooth nice surface helping to get any air bubbles out at the same time. It’s not sold by any of the cutting companies, you usually find them in the paint supply departs of your Home Depot or paint sections of department stores.
To say that I think you should have a backup knife and mat on hand is an understatement. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve read where people cut their mats. I to have cut my silhouette mats up. I haven’t done that on my SNC, but I knew better when I got that machine as well. The biggest reason a mat will get cut through is that the knife setting has been placed too high for what your cut.
Like scissors, keep a knife for cutting freezer paper, and a knife for cutting fabric on hand.
The Actual Cutters:
I’m going to talk about the differences between the two different cutters I own.
I personally believe that neither is better than the other is. But if you were to ask me even three months ago (early April 2014), I would have hands down said the SNC was the better cutter. However, since Kari essentially told me what I needed to do to get the fabric to cut on the Cameo, that has changed. It’s not that I want you to go and spend $700.00 to buy two cutters either, so if I were going to tell you which cutter to seriously look at, it would be the Cameo and the biggest reason is that of the marking/printing abilities of the Cameo. As of 2018 if you are a fabric artist, quilter, sewist, the SNC is the better machine. In 2014 I didn’t realize how great the scanning feature is for the SNC and how much of a timesaver it was to setting those shapes in place. While I do love some features of the Cameo and I do still prefer printing on the Cameo over the SNC, I don’t do a lot of printing, but I do cut all my applique shapes on my SNC so the SNC sees far more use. The scanning feature alone is the reason why a quilter will prefer the Brother Scan N Cut.
I will put another machine out there for you tho. The KNK Zing machine is also considered one of the best machines on the market as well. It comes with Make The Cut software and has a huge support fan base. I have seen it cut fabric without any starch or backing type material and that alone is a very impressive thing to me. Should my Cameo ever quit on me, this will be my next cutter. The only thing that the Zing doesn’t do is the scanning, but the Cameo also does not have a scanning ability on the machine itself. The SNC has a separate scanner built in with the machine. You can, however, “scan” into the Cameo or MTC software via your pc scanner.
Both the Cameo and the Zing hook up to your computer. The SNC does not, it uses a separate flash drive to cut the files with. The cameo also has the ability to hook up to a flash drive should you not wish to use it next to your computer. Newer Cameo, KNK and Brother SNC machines now have wireless abilities.
When cutting fabric, no matter what I do with the Cameo, I will invariably have some shapes where a small scissor cut needs to be made to remove the shape from the other part of the fabric. This has not happened to me with the SNC at all. So the SNC has the edge on cutting fabric.
The cameo does a better job of marking than the SNC does. It has the ability to use many different types of pens in its pen holder. The Brother pens are the only ones you can use to my knowledge in the SNC. As of June 2018, this has changed, the SNC’s newest pen holder is well worth the price to purchase it so you can use your own markers.
The SNC is more expensive to use. It needs a support sheet for cutting fabric along with the mat. The cameo only needs a mat. This is no longer true, no support sheet is needed for the SNC, you can simply make your mats sticky on your own. They will also clean up nicely and the stickiness lasts longer also for cutting.
The SNC has the ability to program in a seam allowance at the size of your choosing. The cameos have to be added to your studio file to make a seam allowance happen.
It is easier to set the mat in place on the SNC than it is on the cameo.
Setting the knife and pen holders in place is equally as easy. Changing the knife size on the SNC is easier than on the Cameo. The SNC pen holder is also easier, no chance you’re going to break the lever you put the pen into.
The cameo is lighter in weight than the SNC is. A carrier can be purchased for the cameo, but the SNC does not have a carrier. Patterns are available on Craftsy to make your own for both machines as of 2018.
The cameo, while it has been out longer than the SNC, has a better support system than the SNC. While there are groups you can join for the SNC, Brother is not well known for its technical support. It is dependent on its dealers who sell the machine to teach it to you and if you purchased it online from various sellers, your pretty much dependant on online sources to find out what you need to know. As of 2018, both machines have great support in place with FB groups and plenty of people to help. Brother dealers have stepped up to the challenge and many have learned the machines and their capabilities now. Janome’s cutter is made by KNK, Bernina dealers tend to offer the Cameo machine as there cutter choice.
The SNC will only recognize the .svg format via the online brother canvas software, a hindrance if your internet should be offline. There is no other known way to get patterns to the machine other than to scan them in. (Changed as of 2018, Brother now has installable software for your pc). Please note that while you can add an SVG file into your SNC machine, you are better off converting it to fcm, because SVG is not editable in the machine, but fcm is.
The Cameo software does not export to .svg, nor does the free version of the software import .pdf or .svg and only the newer version 3.0 recognizes the pdf format. (The 99.00 business version of the Cameo software will now support exports of svg, but there is far less expensive and better software to use versus Silhouette’s software)
Setting up the placement of your shapes is easier on the SNC than it is with the Cameo. The differences here are because of the live screen and the scanning feature on the SNC allowing you to drag your shapes around the mat area to match up where you’ve placed your fabrics. The Cameo does not have this feature, to do it, one has to compare the measurements on the mat versus the software screen on their pc.
Via the scanning feature, the SNC has the ability to do a fussy cut easily, no other cutter can do this easily.
I realize that I’ve pointed out a lot of negatives with the SNC, however what sells the machine for me is the fabric cutting ability, the fact that I know Brother makes a good product having one of their embroidery machines was part of the reason I chose to go with the SNC and at the time the Zing was a huge waiting list so I chose not to wait. As of 2018, I now own a KNK Force which I love, but I still use my SNC 99.5% of the time to cut with. The other selling point on this machine is the scanning ability because it alone would make me go out and buy this machine again should mine ever break down. I love love love my Brother SNC.
Some Additional Tips:
To take care of your mats, purchase some Baby Wipes – non-allergenic, fragrance-free and alcohol-free. You will not need a big box of these, they will last you a long time. By far and away, everything I tried just didn’t do very well until I learned about the Baby Wipes, they are simply amazing for cleaning the mats, they even pick up all the little fabric fibers.
If you use storage units, give yourself a drawer just for your cutting supplies, so they all stay together in one place.
Taking Care of your blades, I found a nice post at the Seasoned Homemaker, the other day on cleaning blades, I to had no idea you could do this… I knew the cap came off on the Silhouette blades, but never really gave it a thought to clean them. This is a cool post and I’ll definitely be cleaning up some of the blades I’m thinking are dull.
2018 – Do not throw away the plastic cover on top of your mats that you peel off. You want to place the plastic back on the mat when your done cutting your project out. This keeps your mat sticky and your mat from sticking to other things when you store it. It also keeps your mat clean from all the little dust particles and such flying around your house.
One of the things I really loved about Silhouette’s Designer Edition Pro is the “nesting” ability. This feature alone makes the upgrade worth the cost. If you cut out freezer paper shapes, try the nesting feature and see what I mean. WoW!!! It moves everything into place as close together as possible and saves you huge amounts on your freezer paper and if you live in a country like Australia, where freezer paper costs a lot of money, you want to use as little of it as possible. You won’t believe the difference this makes in cutting out Freezer paper templates. If I ever think to buy the SDE Business edition of the software, I’d do it for the ability to export SVG… I’d bring my original SVG in, use the nesting feature and then export it back out, that’s how much I think it’s worth it alone.
As of 2018, Silhouette has still not fixed the issue with importing SVG’s into there software (of any version) where you must resize the SVG to the size you need when you bring it into there software. This is why my patterns still contain cutting file sizes so you can resize them to the size needed for the pattern.
A note about additional sources, as time passes, each of these sources articles get older and older, please take that into account. Software gets updated, cutters get updates, better techniques are found and people find different ways to do things. Everything I’ve learned from is based on what is on the internet. My entire knowledge about cutting is from what others have taught via video or blog articles and my trying the techniques to gain my own experiences. As of 2018, this has not changed.
Most of these articles/videos feature cutting fabric via the use of Heat n Bond or those types of mediums. Some articles/videos feature other methods, such as cleaning your blade, sketching and various other techniques.
One other little tip, just because someone uses their cutters to cut paper or vinyl doesn’t mean you can’t incorporate your own methods into what they’ve shown you. You would be amazed at what you can learn about the software alone just by reading a how-to on a paper cutting method.
I have certainly not added every single link or video out there, it’s just too many, but I have tried to list those that were most helpful to me.