Tips For Creating The Owl Klutch

Owl KlutchCreating this Owl Klutch was what I call a challenge. I purchased the pattern for this Owl Klutch here.

The eyes in this klutch are originally yoyo’s, but I chose to make a folded hexagon instead and I’ve placed that tutorial here.

While I have made purses before, at my strongest recommendation to you if you purchase this pattern, create a test purse first. It will allow you to get a feel for how the purse is made and put together. This purse is quite the challenge. The pdf file pattern for this is 55 pages and that doesn’t even include the templates for the shapes. These are shipped separately to you in email via a .jpg and there are 9 pages of them. If you know anything about editing them, some of the shapes will fit two to a page and I’d encourage you to make them fit if you can as it’s a huge waste of paper to print out otherwise.

This bag also uses peltex and medium-weight to heavy fusible interfacing. I used fleece in place of the interfacing. I ordered the interfacing but it hadn’t arrived by the time I needed it for the “Think Ruffles” Blog Hop I was participating in.

I’ve never used peltex before until this klutch, but I can see obvious uses for it in the future. I loved how it allowed the bag to feel like a bag/purse, keeps it shape, and feels strong like a purse should. I will use it again, but I’m wiser now about using it.

Part of the problem with this klutch is that all of the parts with the exception of the strap call for the use of the peltex and more than 1 layer of the interfacing. In some cases up to 3 layers are called for in the creation of the bag along with the peltex. In my first bag that I made, the layers were so thick that even my machine was giving me errors that the foot was to high to stitch with.  If you used fleece like I did, it can be easy to see why the thickness became a problem.

So, when I made the second bag, I only cut the peltex for the body part of the bag. No peltex in the flap, or the beak. Those parts only have fleece.

I also cut the top part of the shape out of the peltex like in the image below.


You can see a bit of the green at the top of the body shape here,


and you can see it better here.

I cut that off so that when I’m placing the lining and the beak and flap in, I won’t have all those layers. I did the same with the fleece.

Here is a picture of the flap:


As you can see here, I also cut the fleece so that I avoid all those layers.


This image above and below both show how the thinner layers will go together better now that there is not all those layers in there and they won’t affect the bag at all because it’s all just seams.


You should use the free arm part of your machine to put stitch this out as it will help to turn the bag as your stitching along the outer edges when not only basting the flap and beak in place but adding the lining as well.

Now, the other problem with this bag is the adding of the snaps. I’d never done these before, so it took me a bit to figure this out and when she is showing in the pdf the second image of how it’s done it’s after the lining has been added near the bottom of the pdf.

She also doesn’t explain about how many layers to cut through. On my first bag when I added those, I simply cut thru the fabric only layers and hooked them together with the little tabs on the back of the snap, and they were flimsy, but on the second bag I made I put the button tabs thru all three layers peltex, fleece and fabric on body shape) and fleece and fabric on flap shape and they were much firmer and felt secured in place. I actually did them opposite of the image she shows bring the tabs inward, but I don’t think it really matters which way they go in.

She has you place the snaps on the flaps early on.

However, when you get ready to the line them up for the body shape of the bag, if you marked your body part early on like I did, they won’t line up. They didn’t line up for me on either first bag try or the second bag try, so what I did instead was match them up comparing the flap to the body area..


In the above image, I slightly held up the snap to the body so I could mark it.


In the above image you can better see the place where I first marked it and then the other one I just created (which is the one closer to my finger).

and last…


While this isn’t necessarily a problem, I just wanted to mention that I still had problems getting the beak to lay flat. Even tho it would at least fold over it wouldn’t stay in place. After I blind stitched the hexagons in place, I then topstitched the beak onto the flap so that it would stay in place.

This is my finished klutch.




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