The design is created entirely in the hoop except for the small buttons and bows you use to attach the add-ons. I didn’t make the addons because I intend to create my own which I just haven’t had the time to do as yet, but the project is done and ready for them to be done, so when I have some time I’ll get them done.
I’ve also created a little tutorial today for you on working with batiks when you applique. This doesn’t apply just to machine embroidery, it applies also to normal applique techniques. I hope you will enjoy it.
When you are working with batik fabric, there are some cool features of the fabric that you don’t get with normal cotton. You can create it with normal cotton, but with batiks, it’s pretty much always done for you.
What is cool about working with batiks is that you get a crispness to the fabric that is not often seen in normal cotton. Of course, if you wash your fabrics prior to use, the stiffness goes away. So, what to do? Starch it. do not use something as stiff as Terial Magic is. while there are ways to use Terial Magic with applique, when you want to do normal applique techniques, you really don’t need something as stiff as Terial Magic is, even when cutting fabric on a cutting machine. Starching is more than enough. You want enough crispness to the fabric that it turns under easily still but will also cut easily for cutting shapes out. The crisper the fabric the better, but not to the point where it’s stiff.
The crisper your fabric is, the easier it is to cut, whether it’s by scissors or cutting machine. It is also great for curves and those inner points that are so difficult to get into.
Island Batiks are perfect because most of there fabric already comes with enough crispness that if you don’t wash prior to use, your applique will be easier to do.
With machine embroidery, the crispness makes such a difference, especially if you’re doing the technique where you’re cutting your fabric in the hoop. When I applique in the hoop, my preferred method is still to cut in the hoop, simply because I believe it is far more accurate. If you have soft fabric, it’s far more likely to slip in the scissors and you could end up with a cut you didn’t necessarily want to make.
For scissors, my preferred scissor is a strange looking type of scissors, I don’t know how to describe them without just showing you a picture of them.
These are called the Bent Handle Curved Scissor. While these are not really comfortable to hold, they are absolutely ideal for cutting fabrics in the hoop, because they get right next to your stitching without cutting the applique shapes themselves. They are also great when you have layers of fleece in your project. They have a sharp point that gets right into the points, and they go around curves nicely.
When I first started doing applique in the hoop, I used duckbill scissors, but I just wasn’t happy with those and they do not get close to the edge of that stitch that you need in in the hoop applique, so perhaps the next time you need scissors, give the bent handle scissors a try.
If you’re doing hand applique or applique by sewing machine, you can’t go wrong with Kay Buckley’s scissors. They have become by far and away my favorite scissors to use. I own several different sizes of these scissors and they are amazing to use for applique itself among other techniques.
When you need to get into small areas that are difficult to use scissors with, try using a seam ripper just a small tear is all you need to get your scissors inside of the hole. My favorite seam ripper is the brown ripper from Clover. I’ve used them for years and years and just love them.
By just creating a small rip, you can then use the scissors to get inside and cut the rest of your hole. Even when you have fleece or batting inside. First cut your fabric and then cut your fleece.
When I applique in the hoop, I use a slightly different method than most people do. I normally add an extra stitch at the start. The first stitch is traditionally called a placement stitch, you then have the cutting stitch which many designers do not use (this is what I add) and then the applique stitch is stitched out. I always always always put the stabilizer in my hoop. I never differ from this unless I am quilting in the hoop. With quilting in the hoop, I always put the three layers and I rarely use stabilizer.
So, my first stitch is always on the stabilizer, this allows me to then place the backing behind the stabilizer which I use a glue stick to put into place. I spread the glue inside the shape(s) and then add the backing, flatening it with my hand. You do have to be careful that you don’t adjust your stabilizer. I don’t use sprays and I don’t use fusibles. Glue Stick will wash out and that’s what I want it to do. I will use either a tear away stabilizer or a water-soluble stabilizer. In this case today I used a water soluble stabilizer that has a woven effect to it, but it’s not a woven medium, it is white in color versus the traditional see-thru water-soluble stabilizers.
After stitching the first stitch and gluing the background onto the back of the hoop, I will then pin the background to the stabilizer so that it’s out of the way of what I’m stitching. I use flat head pins for this. I do this so that any extra fabric won’t “flip-flop” around while stitching and get in the way of what I am stitching.
If I am adding the fleece, I do the same, the glue stick is used on the inside of the top of the hoop the area inside of the shape(s) only.
I then flatten the fleece with my hand so there are no creases or folds.
I will then move the pins to the top of the fleece so they are easy to pull out later.
I then add that extra stitch I told you about earlier. In most editing programs you can simply duplicate the first stitch to get a second stitch. If you don’t have editing software, you can use your machine and just go back one stitch on your chart display to restitch that stich so you can see where to place your shapes.
Again as I add fabric around the shapes, I use glue stick inside the shape and add the fabric on top.
In the designer’s instructions for her design, she has you add all the fabrics first, but I don’t do this, once I stitch out one fabric and put the placement stitch in, it gets cut around the edge. I do this because you can prevent layers of overlapping of fabric. In the above image, it’s meant to show placing the fabric, but it also shows how it overlaps into what is the “e” in the project. Once I stitch around that shape in the purple fabric, I will then cut the shape. If I added the next fabric, I wouldn’t be able to get the overlapping out, and if you have a light fabric going on a dark fabric, I’m pretty sure you don’t want to see that shadow, so this is the reason I do this.
The above shows you that I cut the first shape out already also, but you can see it better in the image below.
and here is my cute little project a fun little Welcome sign to go on my door or in my window. The design comes with the eyelets, so you can stitch those in place and then you add your addons to them by using ribbon to tie them on with. You could also use a button, or even scrapbooking brads to attach them.
The top of the sign has 2 eyelets to use a coil wire to hang your project with.
The design project comes with the Spring and Easter add-ons, but there are also other addon packs you can purchase for this design.
This is the schedule for the Use It Up Hop this week, please enjoy the other bloggers and what they also chose to do.
Monday, April 16, 2018
| Lemon Tree Snippets |
Sunday, April 22, 2018
| For Quilt’s Sake |
I hope you have a creative day!!
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